How to sight in an ATN Night Vision scope

The ATN
X-Sight II is another exquisite product that uses the most advanced technology
and good quality optics to bring about some of the best and most versatile
optics obtainable for sporting.

This unit functions both in the daytime and in the night vision, enabling shooters and hunter’s elongate time spent in the field by just pushing a button. The capabilities of both vision optics make this an amazing product but ATN didn’t just leave it at that. The X-Sight has features not seen on rifle scopes, the future of sport optics indeed.

The ATN X-Sight II weighs about 2.2 lbs. and is solid in construction. Its base frame
and battery cover is made of aluminum except lens cap and eye cup which are
made of rubber latex. It is coated with a coating for any weather that shields
the optics and other elements, making them ready for whatever conditions you
may encounter on the field.

This ATN has an Obsidian core processor with a perceptive user interface that enables you
set up your X-Sight quickly. It is said to be easier than set up in a
smartphone and can be customized. Getting your X-Sight to work is a walkover.
The Obsidian core makes sure that the high resolution image sensor gives you
the best in terms of clear and crispy images.

Unique Features of X-Sight ATN

A unique feature of the ATN X-Sight Smart HD is the One Shot Zero ability. It has High
Definition Optic Day- Night Rifle scope.

There are a myriad of reticle options to pick from, ability to record full High Definition
videos and the choice of a 3-14x or 5-20x sight. Zooming is done by pushing
large buttons on top. Other features include:

Night vision

Although the X-Sight can be used in both day and night time, most people use it exclusively
in night vision, a great way to go into the game at night. The night vision
capabilities of the X-Sight are unquantifiable based on its price and
uniqueness. It has excellent image quality and is not like the conventional
night vision unit. When compared with the PVS-14, the X-Sight has better output
and image quality, with the introduction of an IR illuminator.

The range of your X-Sight can be improved with the addition of an aftermarket illuminator.
IR lasers provide an excellent means to point out targets in night time while
in night vision mode.

Accessories

It makes use of 4AA batteries that run for about 8 hours when lithium batteries are in use.
It’s advisable to carry a USB battery pack if you’re going on long hunts or
using the X-Sight for different days. There is compatibility between the USB
packs and the X-Sight but is recommended to take an ATN power kit with you that
uses a battery, USB cord and butt stock case in one. When fully charged, the
USB battery pack can last twice as long as disposable batteries.

You can also switch from the regular green gradient to black and white night vision mode. An observation is that in black and white, clearer contrast can be seen and targets identified easily using this mode. It is indeed the best option for night vision units available in the market. My friend from Bobergarms.com create a great guide for night vision scope guides, you can check it out for the detail.

How to use an ATN Night vision scope

  1. Align the sight of your rifle manually
    or using a laser for bore sighting.
  2. Set the coordinates, X and Y to 0 and
    reset to factory settings.
  3. Select a sight, probably beginning from
    a 100 yards and zoom in at base magnification(very important)
  4. Ensure to shoot targets at the center
    from a steady point.
  5. Open the Zero Setup screen
  6. Click on the Enter key at the center
    twice
  7. Highlight the Menu button using arrow
    buttons and press Enter
  8. Press Display
  9. Select Reticle
  10. Click on Zero Setup
  11. Put down your initial X and Y
    coordinates.
  12. Aim your rifle at the initial target
    point.

Move the reticle to the bullet hole using the arrow buttons, while maintaining original
point of aim. As you move the aim dots, your X and Y coordinates tend to change
in differences of 4.

Keep the initial dot in sight over point of aim after positioning this dot on the impact
hole, and then press Enter. Go back to the main screen using the left arrow
key. Confirm your point of impact and aim by firing another shot. By this time,
you may hit the bulls eye or CLOSE to it. You can zoom in to get a clearer
picture.

Once original sighting is completed, make adjustments by repeating the procedure all
over at a higher zoom greater than the normal scope magnification by half.

The coordinates in the X and Y direction will increase by 1 to enable better
granular refining of impact point. Ensure to put down your new X and Y
coordinates in case the scope is reset. This enables you input them again,
while you zero your rifle without firing.

Benefits of using the ATN X-Sight night vision scope

Some of the benefit of using the ATN X-Sight night vision scope is that it is cost effective. But this does not compromise on quality and durability as well. It is designed for hard functions with a durable weatherproof coating capable of withstanding any conditions you may face in the field. You can zero your X-Sight with just one shot, saving time and ammunition.

All you have to do is enter the sight, fire a shot at your target, identify the point of
impact and aim for the same spot using the buttons on top of the scope to
determine your point of impact. Press save. The computer resets it and zeroes
you. You’re set to go!

You can store multiple zero profiles as well. This ATN unit also has an inbuilt Wi-Fi
connectivity, allowing you pair your sight with an Android or IOS device. Cool
right? With this, you can share your hunting experience with your hunting pal
and they get to see what you see through the optic too. This makes it a great
choice for stand hunting and target shooting using a spotter.

It is a useful tool for training new hunters. A new hunter can watch and learn how and
where to aim when this ATN unit is paired to a tablet. It teaches them a great
deal in targeting and taking on game in a humanely while experiencing every
part of the hunt, from when you spot the game to the aftermath of the shot.

How to Sharpen a Tactical Knife

When used frequently, even the best knives begin to dull and lose their edge. But the inevitable dulling of your knife doesn’t need to signal the need for a new blade. Learning how to properly sharpen your tactical knife will allow you to continue using it effectively for years to come, and it’ll help you maintain any other knives in your arsenal as well to combine with your gear such as tactical jacket, tactical boots

In this guide, we’ll go into the best method to sharpen your tactical knife.

Methods of Sharpening

There are a few different ways you can sharpen your tactical knife, but we’ll be focusing on using a sharpening stone for our method.

Sharpening stones can be found in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Don’t be fooled by terms like “whetting”; this means the same thing as using a sharpening stone to improve the edge of your blade.

Sharpening stones improve the edge of your blade by grinding the knife blade along the stone at a particular angle. This friction removes very small amounts of the knife’s steel, wearing it down to a finer edge along its length. Sharpening stones come in different “grades” which rate how big their gritty, abrasive particles are.

Higher grades indicate a higher particle density, meaning that the gritty particles are smaller. Smaller particles lead to a finer finish and a sharper edge. In general, you’ll want to find a sharpening stone with a grade of 1000-3000, as these stones are used to sharpen dull knives.

Many sharpening stones will also have sides with different grades; one will be rougher and the other will be smoother. This is to facilitate good blade grinding for better results.

The Optimal Angle

To best learn how to sharpen a tactical knife, let’s discuss the angle of the knife to the sharpening surface.

Most knives have an optimal sharpening angle that is usually described in the packaging from the manufacturer. If you don’t know the best sharpening angle for your tactical knife, a good rule of thumb is to choose an angle between 10 and 30 degrees.

The way angles work means that shallower angles (lower) will create a sharper edge, while the reverse is true for steeper angles (higher). Steeper angles aren’t as sharp as shallow angles, but they will cause your knife to last for longer and be more durable overall.

Beginners may wish to try and angle between 17 and 20 degrees since this strikes a good balance between sharpness and durability.

Lubrication

You may or may not need to follow this step.

Basically, some sharpening stones can be used while dry, while others need to be lubricated with mineral oil or water. It depends on the stone you’ve purchased.

If your stone does need lubrication due to its particle density or type, we’d recommend using special mineral oil, even if it costs a little extra. A supply of mineral oil will last a long time and lead to a longer lifespan for the sharpening stone, as well. Better quality materials always lead to a better quality knife in the end, too.

To lubricate your stone, simply place the oil or water onto the sharpening stone surface and use a paper towel to spread the lubricant over the stone entirely.

Angle Guide

Next, it’s a good idea to make use of an angle guide. These specialized tools are placed beneath your knife to keep it at the angle you’ve chosen for optimal results. They’re not too expensive and are much more reliable than hand estimations.

Instead of a tool, you can also use a sharpie and simply color over the very edge of your knife. After you’ve attempted to sharpen the knife with a few strokes of the stone, you should be able to tell if the sharpie has been worn away. If it has, you’re at the right angle.

Still, an angle guide is a better alternative if you can find one for purchase.

Time to Sharpen

Let’s get started.

Take your knife and drag it across the rough edge of your sharpening stone, moving in the opposite direction from which you would normally use the knife to slice something. This moves the stone “against” the grain of the knife so that the grinding effort is more efficient.

Continue dragging the blade across the sharpening stone for a few strokes. Examine the knife edge every so often, checking to see if you’re at the halfway point to a new edge. An estimation here is fine, as it doesn’t have to be exact.

Flip

Be sure to flip your knife and do this process to the other side, as well. Each side of the tactical knife’s edge needs to be given its own attention. Once you’re done, flip the knife back to its original side. Make sure to stabilize your angle guide if you have one.

The Fine Grit Side

Now use the finer grit side of your sharpening stone and stroke your knife across its surface. During the process of sharpening on the rougher side of the stone, you should have created several “burrs” along the edge of your blade.

Burrs look like very fine wires or raised edges on the tip of your knife. As you stroke the knife against the fine side of the stone, your goal should be to smooth out all the burrs. Once completed, the result should be a pretty sharp edge.

Be sure to flip the knife and do the same thing to the other side, smoothing out all the burrs.

Alternating Swipes

You’ll now aim to make both sides of the knife equal to one another for the perfect edge. To accomplish this, swipe your tactical knife across the sharpening stone and alternate the side that you stroke. Flip the knife over and over for an even number of swipes, such as 10 or 20.

Finished

Once completed, you should have a much sharper knife than before, but it should also be an edge that’s fairly durable due to the angle setting chosen earlier. You can always sharpen your knife to be even keener, but you’ll need to adjust the angle as we explained above. You also should get a good tactical knife to easy maintenance later. If you need one, check this list:

Top 10 Best Tactical Knives 2020 – Reviews And Buying Guide

Best Travel Fishing Rod Guide

Discover the Best Travel Fishing Rod: Ultimate Travel Rod Comparison Guide!

Far too often I’ve been on the road or on vacation and found myself at a lake or a pier helplessly watching my fellow fisherman relaxing and enjoying the pleasures of fishing. I’d wander from fisherman to fisherman aimlessly asking “catch anything?” or “anything biting?” masking my envy and debating whether or not I should rent a pole. Eventually, I’d cave in and overpay to rent whatever old rod was available, only to spend more time fussing with it than actually fishing with it. There’ve been other times when I’ve had to leave my fishing rod at home for backpacking trips, and have come across pristine streams, ponds, or lakes full of fish! Imagine my anguish as I angrily and reluctantly chomped on custom trail mix instead of a nice protein rich Brook Trout.  You are obviously here because you love to fish and renting some tattered old rod from the local marina or not having one at all is no longer acceptable!  You want to be prepared, able to fish when and where you want, with a rod that you’ve chosen.

We all have our own ideas of what the ideal Travel Fishing Rod is, to some a telescopic fishing rod to take on backpacking trips or to store for a survival situation is ideal, others prefer a multi-section rod that conveniently comes apart for easy transportation, while others want a versatile rod that can adjust to a wide range of fish and adjust to number of fishing conditions. With so many products out there and so many independent reviews, it could be overwhelming. That’s why we created the Ultimate Travel Fishing Rod Comparison Guide, use it to help you decide.

Below is an interactive chart of Travel Fishing Rods that will help you select the Travel Fishing Rod that is best for you

There are an enormous amount of Travel Fishing Rods and manufacturers, there was no way we could list them all. However, many remarkable rods from a large variety of manufacturers at every price range are included in the full comparison guide.

Also, Most of the rods included are designed for a spinning reel but there are a few bait casting, fly rods, and combo rods listed in the full guide.

What is a Travel Fishing Rod?

A Travel Fishing Rod is the most convenient fishing rod for the active outdoorsman or traveler. A large number of fishing rods come in one piece and are difficult to pack and inefficient to travel with. Travel fishing rods on the other hand come in a number of different configurations, everything from telescopic rods to 6 piece multi sectional rods. Whether you are a survivalist prepping for a zombie apocalypse, a camping enthusiast, a backpacker, kayaker, or just going on a vacation, these rods are designed to save you time and space without sacrificing quality.

How to find the Travel Fishing Rod that fits your needs?

Above you will find an interactive comparison chart containing many of the top travel fishing rods on the market today. Take a look at what’s on the comparison guide before rushing to a decision. Review the many different options and combinations of information the chart provides then make the best buying decision for you.

Make use of the Ultimate Travel Fishing Rod Comparison Guide; find your perfect rod, and GO FISHING!

Top 5 Travel Fishing Rods

The vast majority of the travel rods included in the guide are great options; however there were a few that stood out as our favorites. Below you’ll find our top 5 picks for overall best travel fishing rod accompanied by a more detailed review.

Okuma’s Nomad Inshore Saltwater Multi Action Travel Rods-NTi-S-703ML-M

Based on the overall rating,quality of the material used, versatility of the rod, and the outstanding reputation of Okuma the NTi-S-703M-MH is definitely one of the top travel rods available.  With an overall length of 7 ft., the medium light action on this rod won’t allow you to bring in Jaws, but it should allow you to handle most of the game fish a pier or inshore fishing will throw at you. This travel fishing rod comes in three sections that are easily put together and easy to take apart, allowing the traveling fisherman to conveniently transport it, fish it, and store it. Another added benefit of this rod is it comes with two different action tips, giving you the ability to easily adjust to varying fishing conditions.

At a price of $160.00 it is at the higher end, but its quality and versatility make it a good investment.

Eagle Claw Pack-It Telescopic Spinning Rod, 5-Feet x 6-Inch

The Eagle Claw Pack-it Telescope Spinning Rod is a great option for a backpacker, Kayaker, beginner, or if you just want to store it in your car for some impulse fishing. This medium light fishing rod is incredibly compact and fits in backpacks, kayak hatches, and any trunk.  It may not be the sturdiest or most versatile rod on the market but for $20.99 on Amazon, it’s a great value. You’re not going to be able to handle any river monsters on this rod and the action on it isn’t top notch but it’ll do well for Blue Gill, Crappie, Sunfish, Trout, and small Bass.  It offers a low entry point for easily beginners (especially children), and is easily stored in a backpack or vehicle as a “just in case rod” emergency rod.

Tsunami Surf TSTSS 863H Spinning Kayak Travel Rod

This is a tough compact 3 piece surf rod designed for the trophy chasing fishing fanatic. This rod is labeled as a kayak rod but it could easily be used for inshore, offshore, or even in some trophy lakes;        making it versatile and a great fit for a traveler. The rod is made of undirectional graphite composite blanks that are wrapped with a graphite mesh outer layer designed to increase it’s strength, toughness, and sensitivity. It’s 8.5 ft hieght also provides you th necessary leverage to take on and endure the toughest trophy fish fight out there. There isn’t much subtlety or finesse to this bad boy, if you hook it, expect this rod to bring it in for you.

Daiwa Wildnerness Medium Action Spin Pack Rod,(6 1/2-Feet)

Daiwa has been around since 1955 and is known for its quality products. They’ve been a consistent industry leader when it comes to spincast fishing tackle and it should come as no surprise that this Rod is on our list of top travel rods.

The Daiwa Wilderness Medium Action Spin Pack Rod comes in 6 pieces, can convert from a spinning rod to a fly rod, is designed for #4 – 8 mono or #6 Fly line, and breaks down to 15 inches in length. This rod is perfect for going after medium sized game fish like Trout, Bass, Walleye, and Pike. It’s versatility, light weight and breakdown size make it perfect to take when backpacking, camping, kayaking, or canoeing. For the convenience, versatility, quality, and price, this is a great deal.

Daiwa Mini System Minispin Ultralight Spinning Reel and Rod Combo in Hard Carry Case

No surprise, we have another Daiwa product. This Rod may be the ultimate Ultralight spinning reel travel rod; it’s compact, high quality, comes with a case and is fairly priced at $42.69. If you’re traveling in or around small lakes, ponds, or streams it has ideal size. Being an Ultralight, it’s set up to handle Trout, Sunfish, Crappie, and bluegill; but with sufficient skill, it may be able to handle fish up to 5 lbs in weight. Having a hard carry case makes it easier to travel with or store in your car, but the case isn’t ideal for backpacking.

It’s Up To You

Now that you’ve been introduced to our guide and reviewed our top picks for the best Travel Fishing Rod on the market, it’s up to you to decide which rod is best for you. Feel free to sort by price, brand, rating, or any other of the criteria we’ve provided.

New Travel rods are being created all the time.  Because of this the comparison chart will be updated frequently to keep up with the increasing product selection. Also, if we’ve missed a superior product that needs to be included or you’d like to have additional info provided in the guide let us know in the comments section below.

Survival Tips – How to Pack a Kayak for camping!

A properly loaded boat will be easy to handle, easy to find things in, and safe. This is my general philosophy in packing a boat.

How to pack a Kayak

Keep it Safe

This should be the number one priority when loading your kayak. It’s not good to keep things in your lap (although I’m often guilty of this when using a camera often). Make sure no loose straps or gear is dangling where you could get stuck on it should you swim out of your boat.

This article is no substitute for common sense: you are responsible for your own safety. I highly recommend taking a swiftwater rescue course and Wilderness First Responder course.

Pack Light

This is backpacking with a kayak, not car camping. No, you don’t have to carry everything on your shoulders, but when you pack light, every transaction will be easier.

Think about every time you have to deal with your gear: loading the car at home; unloading the car at the put-in; packing your boat at the put-in; digging around for lunch; unloading your boat at camp; setting up your sleep system and bombproofing camp; breaking down camp; loading your boat in the morning; etc, etc, etc.

The less stuff you bring the easier every one of those steps will be.

The most important consideration is actually space, not weight.

Things Will Get Wet: Use Drybags

Waterproof hatches are definitely not such. They always leak, or at least you should assume that they do. A lot of small drybags are better than a few big drybags.

You can stuff small drybags in the weird crevices of a kayak, and it’s easier to organize your gear (just grab the lunch bag when it’s time). The only downside is managing more bags while portaging and unpacking, but I like to just drag my kayak up on shore right next to where I camp, and unload from there.

You can also bring a big duffel bag, large dry bag, or big tarp to put everything in if you’re doing a lot of portages-  but in that case you’d be better off just carrying less stuff. I like to fill the drybags about 2/3rds full and then squeeze out all the air, so it’s easier to stuff them in odd shapes.

Make sure to get drybags that will fit in the opening of your hatches; test them before you go. Tapered drybags are nice, but not neccesary. The best, driest drybags I’ve ever used are made by Watershed. I won’t put my SLR camera in anything else (except a Pelican case).

Here’s a cheap option if you don’t want to buy new dry bags: use plastic trash bags inside nylon stuff sacks. The stuff sack keeps the plastic bag from getting ripped, while the plastic provides waterproofing. Make sure you realize that this can fail: mission critical items like sleeping bags and camera should be in quality dry bags.

Think about what needs to stay dry (sleeping bag, food) vs what can get wet (tent poles and bottle of whiskey). It’s usually easier to put things in your boat loose than in dry bags, so you can fill up all those empty crevices.

Balance the Weight

Put the heavier things such as water, food, and cooking equipment towards the cockpit/middle of kayak, and light items such as your sleeping bag towards the stern or bow of the boat.

This keeps the weight centered in the boat, making it more maneuverable. Try and stuff odd shaped things in the tips- I always put tent poles out of a drybag and as far back in the stern as possible, for example. It’s a good idea to test your setup at home first.

This will save you a lot of headache at the put-in when you discover that your Paco Pad will not fit next to your lawn chair in your stern as you thought it would. If you are testing at the putin, make sure you can leave the inevitable extra items in a car.

I rarely keep things on the deck, with the exception of a map. But it’s good to remember that you have the option; if you’re just going out for the night on flatwater, strap the 30 rack right on the back!

Keep your stuff centered in the kayak, without too much weight to the left or right side. Packing your boat tight will keep things from rolling around as your boat moves; this will improve your stability.

I like using the space in front of the foot pegs; just make sure that your field are clear of all your gear, and that everything in front is secure and watertight in case of a swim.

A place for everything, and everything in it’s place…

I heard that one from my dad enough times. But it is much nicer to have a well organized kayak that you can unload and reload efficiently.

Practice is the only way to become really good at this skill, but you need to plan a bit too. You need to be able to find what you’re looking for without unpacking the whole boat. For example, keep lunch, rescue gear, drinking water, and sunscreen handy during the day.

Now your kayak should be stuffed full, stable, and ready for an adventure!

Predator’s Eyesight: 5 Tips For Using Thermal Scopes

The thermal scope, one of hunting’s most fascinating pieces of technology.

If you’ve clicked on this article today, then you’ve likely either purchased yourself one of these badboys, or you’re considering it. Great! But how familiar are you with such innovative technology? How much help do you need before you get ready to use one of these yourself?

If you’re someone asking yourself these kinds of questions, then you’re in the right place!

First Off, What is Thermal Imagery?

thermal hunting at night

Thermal imagery, or thermography, refers to infrared imagery. Infrared images are often dark initially, only lighting up when objects with enough heat or radiation generated in them get caught in the camera/scope’s view. Thermal scopes work similarly to normal night vision devices, which soak up light particles instead of heat or radiation.

In our opinion, however, thermal scopes are much better than night vision scopes. Thermal scopes are far more capable of capturing the target of your desires while night vision can certainly illuminate them, but with much less accuracy. Thermal imagery can be used in many different ways. Besides the obvious activity of hunting, this technology can often be found in surveillance cameras as well as medical equipment.

Our Five Pointers

If you’ve clicked on this article, chances are high that you’re looking to use your thermal scope for hunting. To this observation, I say congratulations! You’re on the right track to mastering thermal imagery by knowing what you’re going to do with your new scope and when you want to use it. But ideas can only go so far without any formal research to back you up!

Thankfully, we’ve got you covered.

Scroll down to read our top five pointers for using thermal scopes!

Tip #1: Basics, Basics, Basics. We’ve thankfully already been over the differences between thermal scopes and standard night vision scopes. But be sure you never get the two mixed up, otherwise you might accidentally break your device when trying to use it at the wrong place and time! So just to refresh your memory, thermal scopes catch heat and can be used at basically any time of day. Night vision, on the other hand, catch light and can ONLY be used at night.

Tip #2: Don’t Get Too Overwhelmed. For most of you, the first time you ever witnessed the look of thermal imagery was probably when you watched the first Predator movie. The alien in particular was specifically bred to be a good hunter because he could literally see every inch of his targets in movement through the use of his enhanced eyesight. He never had to worry about overstimulation, so long as nobody could find him and hurt him. Too bad thermal imagery doesn’t QUITE work like that in real life!

In fact, the more realistic truth behind thermal imagery is that overstimulation is more than possible. We are only human, after all. So when using your thermal scope, train yourself to be able to make out specific images so that nothing gets too confusing.

Tip #3: Zeroing Practice. We get it, sighting your rifle while simultaneously using a thermal scope can be tricky. And since most people don’t shoot at paper targets in the middle of night, objects with some semblance of heat in them are what show up in thermal scans. With this being said, try making use of a metal target whenever you’re testing your scope.

Tip #4: Calibration Is Key. Calibrating a scope isn’t rocket science, but it can still prove to be confusing to newcomers. Imagine scrolling through your Facebook feed and notice that your sister has posted thirty-two new images of your infant nephew. You try to click on the album to load up the photos, but it doesn’t load! What do you do to fix the problem? You hit the refresh button at the top of your browser and reload the page, of course.

Calibrating a thermal scope works the same way. Even high-grade technology has the tendency to lag up whenever you least want it to. For newbie hunters, this can be very overwhelming in the middle of a big hunt. Our recommendation is purchasing a scope with continuous calibration, so that you don’t have to worry about doing it yourself.

Tip#5: Eye Training. Specialized night vision devices, whether pertaining to thermal imagery or standard night vision, are capable of emulating some particularly bright lights and colors. Unless you’ve got the world’s strongest set of eyes, chances are very high that you won’t be able to stand the brightness for too long of a time. With this in mind, it helps to train your eyes so you can adapt to the strange world which can only be seen through the lens of a thermal scope. A good method to use is starting out small and short, like using your thermal scope to identify objects in your closet or basement when the lights are out. When you’re comfortable with smaller spaces, you can level up to larger spaces like your backyard.

What to Look For in a Hunting Rangefinder

When I started shopping for a rangefinder to use while hunting, there was so much to learn and I had no idea what sort of things my rangefinder needed to have and what sort of things that I could do without. After a whole lot of research and some learning, I finally found some things that you should look for when you’re ready to buy a rangefinder.

What type of rangefinder do you need?

The first thing is to figure out what kind of rangefinder you need. There are rangefinders for golf, forestry and hunting. While some golf ones may work OK for some hunters, it’s best to just got and get one specifically for hunting. Check the list from wildewoodwoodcreek.com for golf rangefinders. The hunting specific ones will allow you to see through brush and dense trees, while the golf rangefinders are made for wide open fairways – not great when you’re looking for that mule deer buck walking through the trees. Get something specific to your purpose, and you’ll be fine.

Rifle or Bow Hunting Rangefinders

In addition to making sure to get a hunting specific rangefinder, you need to consider the type of hunts that you frequently do. Are you an all rifle hunter or do you hunt mostly with a bow? Many rangefinders can work for either rifle or bow, but there are certain types of rangefinder that will work better with one or the other (mostly for bow hunting). So, if you hunt mostly bow, give a close look at the bowhunting specific rangefinders. They traditionally have more features that are specific to bow hunting, like slope and angle calculation features which will make sure that you use the right distance. A bad angle could cause an arrow to whiz over or under your bull elk when hunting and you may never get another shot off.

Angles, Max Range and Magnification

Some rangefinders have a max range of about a mile, while most fall somewhere in the 400-700 yard range. Do the areas you’re hunting traditionally have over a mile worth of visibility, or is it something a bit less. Where I hunt in the western US sometimes I can see for many miles (especially when hunting antelope). Of course, I’ll never take a shot that far, so I dont really think I need a rangefinder that will calculate distance that far. However, if I did a lot of tree stand or forest hunting I’d wouldnt really consider a rangefinder with a mile range because the forest is so thick that you cant see for a mile anyway.

Magnification will come between 4x and 12x, but most are 4x-8x. The number before the x is how many times larger that big elk will appear in your rangefinder view screen. This will obviously give you a better look at your target, but will take away some from your field of view when looking through the view screen – which can make finding your target difficult.

Angle calculation for your rangefinder could also be important. Instead of talk about why, I’ll tell you about a time I was cow elk hunting in wyoming (with a bow). I had found this group of 4 elk together, two cows and tow calves, walking down a draw and away from my position. Moving wasnt an option, and I had guessed they were about 35 yards away from me. The rangefinder said that I should aim for a 30 yard shot to get the arrow where I wanted it to be. I thought the advice seemed odd, but I followed it anyway. I ended up hitting exactly where I wanted and had I not had my rangefinder I would have used my initial assumption of 35 yards out and watched the arrow whiz over the head of the cow I was after and then watch the group of elk run off. Im sure there are plenty more stories about angle calculation from plenty of other hunters out there just like this one.

Simplicity & Size

One of the things that I really strive for when I’m out in the field is the ease of use. I dont want to be messing with a GPS, a rangefinder or some other piece of equipment and have something that I’m out hunting for walk in front of me and I wont be able to take a shot. Some of the rangefinders are fairly complicated to work, and others have just 1 button you need to press before they can give you a reading. How many times do you want to be pressing a button before you’re able to get the information you’re looking for? It’s not very much for me.

Size is also a concern of mine. I dont want a gigantic rangefinder that will take up a bunch of room in my pocket or pack and be a pain every time I need to get it out and use it. I prefer something light weight and slim that will allow me to hold it easily with 1 hand while ranging a critter out in the open. Having something that is too big or requires too much effort to operate will most likely lead to me not using it often. That will then defeat the whole purpose of getting a rangefinder in the first place.

How much are you willing to spend?

This is probably a big, unspoken concern for everyone. Our rangefinder comparison table has prices from just over $100 to over $1,000. This is a huge cost range, and something that costs as much as a rangefinder shouldnt be taken lightly. Figure out how much you are willing to spend (or how much your significant other lets you spend) then start shopping based on that. Sure, the bushnell rangefinder/binocular combo units are nice, but if you can only spend $250 you may as well not even bother looking at them. Once your budget is set, take all the options that you have that cost less than that and figure out the rangefinder that best meets your needs from there.

There’s a lot to figure out if you’re looking for a hunting rangefinder, but once you figure out how much you can spend and what is most important to you the decision should get much easier to handle. There are a lot of great rangefinders out there and we are here to help you pick the best one. Head over here to view the rangefinder for hunting comparison and reviews from Eric patton

Ruger 10/22 Accessories for Survival Readiness

One of the most popular .22 rifles in the world is the Ruger 10/22 and one you probably own one. It is a must-have rifle for survival readiness and small game hunting.

What is the Best Gun for Survival?

This is a question that will stir debates, but we can all agree the Ruger 10/22 is a formidable choice in the hands of any marksman. With the right knowledge and skills, this gun can take down small games such as rabbits and keeping you safe in any survival situation.

At 37 inches, the .22 caliber semi-automatic Ruger 10/22 is comparatively shorter and quite comfortable to shoot with little recoil. Without argument, this is by far the most popular gun in the United States for survival. It is highly reliable, versatile accurate and portable.

Ruger 10/22 Accessories for Survival Readiness

There is no rule on what you choose to stock your Ruger 10/22. However, to be best prepared for any eventualities, we recommend the following seven top accessories.

Sling

This is by far the most essential accessory for the Ruger 10/22 giving you the freedom to use your hands on other things when outdoors. In a bug-out situation where you have to carry a backpack and several other items, a sling can help you carry your Ruger with ease.

You can modify your gun by drilling stocks on both the synthetic and wooden ones to attach a strap. Other options to use include a thread locker or a single-point sling. The basic consideration is to get a sling that is comfortable for you. Getting a sling makes sense as it acts as the holster for your rifle.

Ruger 10/22 Scope

While most people might argue a scope is not necessary for such a small hunting rifle, getting a Ruger 10/22 scope is a great idea. You need a Ruger 10/22 scope for a specific use, let’s say hunting. You need a simple scope considering the optimum shooting range of most 22 LR is 25-75 yards.

There is no need for a scope with a greater magnification as this will lead to a narrow field of view. Does it make sense investing in a $500 scope for a $200 Ruger 10/22?

Well, it all comes down to the specific needs of the rifle. However, for survival, the best scope for the Ruger 10/22 needs to be durable, specifically made for rimfire rifles and easy to adjust the power.

Automatic Bolt Release

You need everything working with ease during a survival situation. There is usually no time for pulling the bolt back and pushing to release the bolt mechanism while at the same time chambering a round. For those that have used the Ruger 10/22, you know exactly how this works. It is a pretty simple process, but there is nothing wrong making it even simpler.

Having an automatic bolt release allows you to work on the bolt without pressing the lock mechanism. It is pretty simple equipment but one that would mean the difference between getting the shot on time or being hurt by aggressive animals.

Magazines

There are usually two types of magazines to choose for your Ruger 10/22. This can either be the extended magazine or the 10 round rotary magazine. Make sure you choose a magazine that is adjustable and a good fit for your gun.

Magazine Release

Of course, you don’t have to have one but getting out your magazine can be hard sometimes. Magazine releases are quite cheap but one of those accessories that make using your Ruger 10/22 a lot easier.

Bolt Handle

This usually depends on how you view the bottle handle on your Ruger 10/22. If it feels small, there is nothing wrong getting an extended bolt handle.

Extractor

Finally, you can get an extractor if you use your gun more frequently. While Ruger 10/22 guns work flawlessly, they are known to be sluggish after frequent use. There is nothing wrong adding some quality extractor to blow the casings out of the rifle.

What accessories do you use on your Ruger 10/22? Share with us the cool accessories that make your Ruger 10/22 the best survival rifle.

Stop, Drop, and Roll into some Helpful Hints to get you Fire Ready

I’ve never personally been through a house fire, but I know friends and family that have, and it is devastating. In many cases, most possessions of material and sentimental value are lost, and the residents are left to pick up the pieces and start over.

No matter how careful we are – keeping heaters clear, resisting the temptation to stick just one more plug in the outlet, and hiding the matches away from kids – there may still be forces beyond our control or knowledge that sparks the preliminary flame; lightning strikes, a wayward flicked cigarette, or a badly wired heat lamp in your roommate’s secret marijuana garden (true story!) can be sudden and unexpected fire hazards, so it’s important to always be prepared.

Nothing but time can soothe the feelings of loss and distress over losing a home, but these tips may help in salvaging the important building blocks to a faster recovery, and ensuring the best chance of survival for you and your family if misfortune does strike.

The Things You’ll Want to Have

-Smoke detector-

I never liked the ear-splitting screeches of alarm systems, but I admit they are extremely effective in signaling that something’s wrong. Installing a smoke detector in your home can potentially alert you, and everyone in the house, to the presence of fire before you would have noticed it yourself, and with something as quick to spread as fire, every second counts. Smoke detectors will let you know with short, persistent beeps when the batteries are low and need to be changed, but it’s good to change them at least once a year.

-Fireproofed containers-

Although you unfortunately can’t save everything in a fire, there are some things that should be protected in case one does occur. Important documents such as birth certificates, social security, insurance papers, passports and the like should be stored in fireproof containers. Identification, credentials, and proof of insurance are some of the first things you’ll need on the path of recovery, so decide which documents are most important and don’t delay in ensuring that they’re safe.

-Emergency food storage-

Meals can be expensive, and with the loss of a home, you’d want to focus funds on getting back on your feet as quickly as possible. Having access to cheap, nutritious food can help alleviate that particular source of stress. There are kit options available that provide enough food to feed families for months to years for less than $2 a meal, saving you that much more money to put toward rebuilding to stability.

The Things You Might Not Have Thought About

-Escape plan-

Remember those fire drills we had to endlessly practice in grade school? By the end of each year, they were so routine, we could practically evacuate the building in our sleep – in fact, I’m pretty sure some of my classmates did do it in their sleep. Well, an evacuation plan is no less important to regularly practice in your home. Note each route in every room of the house with alternatives in case a path becomes blocked. Be sure to walk and talk the plan through with young children at least twice a year, and it never hurts to remind the older kids either. Knowing where to go will help keep everyone a bit calmer and get everyone to safety faster.

-A clear path-

An escape plan might not be any good if your designated pathways become blocked. Regularly cleaning house and clearing clutter reduces the chance of tripping or knocking into things, potentially causing injury or wasting precious time on the way out. Stacks and boxes of flammable objects are especially important to keep tidy and out of the way.

-Get to know your neighborhood-

Houses are built so close together these days, so the risk of fire spread is higher. If you feel your neighbor’s house is hazardously close, talk it over with them and make plans about how to alert each other if one house catches fire and how to cooperatively handle the situation.

The Benefits of Alternative Medicine

I am not a doctor, don’t take my word or anyone else, but your own.

In the event that there is a collapse of civilization. The supply of common medicine will become non existent very fast. Not to long ago people relied on natural medicine, many of these have been disapproved for use by the FDA. While I am far from a expert on natural medicine, have and use a few will very good results.

My number one survival medicine is MMS (Miracle Mineral Solution) this is a stupid name and I was very wary of it at first. But a good friend of mine said it work great for his son. So I tried it, the detox is horrible and it taste like your drinking chlorine LOL.

So after a couple months I noticed the mouth sores that I had suffered from since I was a child were gone, my IBS mellowed and the first night I took it I slept like a rock.

This was 2 years ago and the cold sores are still gone, the IBS is not even a problem. I carry a bottle in my BOB, and keep a bottle in my kitchen. This is not a daily use item, it should only be used it needed or detoxing.

The next mineral is Silver. The medical uses of silver include its use as an antiseptic, a disinfectant, and an alternative medicine product known as colloidal silver. I use it as a immune booster, and I have not been sick since.

Basic Colloidal Silver Generators can be build for a few dollars, with proper research, with anything you must do your own research, and decide if it is right for you.

If you would like to see what people are saying about these and other Alternative Medicines try the CureZone.com Forum.

I’m not trying to sell these to you, I am just saying you should find what works for you, learn the natural ways of healing, the doctors medicine may not always be there.

When Batteries Go Bad: A cycle that keeps going and going and going…

I don’t know about you, but I go through batteries very quickly. The things I often use them for has changed, from my Gameboy and MP3 player to Xbox controllers and my digital camera, but the consumption rate has largely remained the same.

However, while we may be used to changing batteries in our everyday-use electronics, it’s easy to forget that the things we don’t use as often need battery changes every once in awhile as well. It’s especially important for the equipment you have on standby in case of a disaster, because the last thing you want is to find your equipment not working when you need it most.

See that nasty, fuzzy, powdery-looking stuff? That’s battery corrosion; the result of battery acid leakage that builds over time. It can cause damage to your equipment if not cleaned and can even render it non-functional.

Heat can accelerate this process, so storing your equipment in a cool area is a good idea. There’s no real timeline to point to as to when corrosion happens, it can depend on the type of battery and other factors, so changing out batteries regularly is your best bet to prevent it from happening. You may want to make it into a once-a-year or every other year routine for the best results.

-Cleaning Corrosion-

Changing out batteries before this happens is ideal, but if you’ve noticed corrosion starting, you’ll want to get it cleaned as soon as possible. Make sure not to touch the corroded areas as they are acidic, and use a tissue, cloth, or gloves to remove the batteries. If you do touch it, make sure to wash your hands thoroughly.

To clean the corrosion, mix a little water and baking soda, apply to a q-tip and rub the affected areas until all signs of corrosion are gone. Baking soda is a base, so it will neutralize the acid and prevent further damage. Make sure to completely dry your equipment before putting fresh batteries back in.